The revitalization of Vancouver’s Chinatown

27Jul10

I’ll admit it: Chinatowns are usually not on my list of “must see” areas when I travel. Ditto with my parents, and yet we’re of Chinese descent. Usually, it seems, Chinatowns are dirty, and the stench of rotting days-old groceries wafting out of back alley garbage bins in the summer is positively lurid. So too is the sight of overweight rodents scurrying in said alleys, sometimes running in and out of a restaurant’s back door.

In the past few years, though, Vancouver’s Chinatown has undergone a revitalization of sorts. From its humble beginnings in he 1890’s, it served as the social, cultural and economic hub of Vancouver’s Chinese community starting in the 1890’s. But its importance declined as waves of immigrants arrived in southwestern British Columbia during China’s takeover of Hong Kong in 90’s. Attracted to suburban Richmond’s proximity to Vancouver International Airport, cheaper and larger housing, cleanliness and low crime rate, they shifted the businesses and traffic out of the historic centre and onto and surrounding Richmond’s No. 3 Road.

Thankfully, the tireless volunteers of the Vancouver Chinatown Business Improvement Area Society has been actively cleaning up the neighbourhood, encouraging residents to learn English, hosting cultural events and marketing Chinatown as a worthwhile draw for locals and tourists alike. Hip businesses have started moving in, like Bao Bei and Erin Templeton, fitting in nicely with more tradition-oriented neighbours. Swank, modern condos are being built, while still retaining old-style architecture to blend into the crowd. And, it is also a fine place for history buffs to check out the story of early Chinese immigration, as well as for shutterbugs to go nuts capturing the vibrant architecture and bold colours.

The Millennium Gate, commemorating Chinatown’s past and future. It was completed in 2002 and formally opened in a ceremony that included then-Prime Minister Jean Chrétien and then-mayor Philip Owen.

One of two guardian lions at the foot of the Millennium Gate. This is the female lion; her left paw is on top of a lion cub. Male lions have a paw on a ball. They are supposed to guard the area.

Budget travelers looking for cheap, healthy dishes and big portions won’t be disappointed in Chinatown’s selections.

Not sure what the menu says? Unable to communicate with the restaurant staff, who speak minimal English and your Cantonese or Mandarin isn’t up to par? Simply point at the picture of what you want.

Possibly the most photographed building in Chinatown is the Sam Kee building, which now is home the Jack Chow insurance firm. Built in the early 1900’s, it is recognized in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s narrowest commercial building at 4″11 at the base and 6″ wide on the second storey. It was restored in 1986; interestingly, a family of magicians works in the insurance firm.

Canada’s first large wave of Chinese immigrants arrived in 1858 as gold prospectors heading east to the Fraser River. More arrived to construct the Canadian Pacific Railway. The area was referred to as Gold Mountain, as the settlers were optimistic they’d become wealthy. Alas it was not the case for many. Not all were able to make enough money to return to China as they hoped to do; others died while laying down CPR tracks because Chinese workers were often assigned to work the most dangerous sections or most dangerous jobs; plus, they were paid considerably than their co-workers of European descent, which was legal during that time.

Much of the architecture in Chinatown dates from the turn of the century, narrow four to five-storey buildings which aren’t radically different in appearance now than they were a century ago. In the Lower Mainland, Chinatown is the only place these old Chinese buildings are found.

New immigrants – all men, as women were not allowed to immigrate – often settled in boarding houses, also known as Chinese bachelor houses. Some were run by local surname associations, others by the district. By the time the 1950’s arrived, the small suites were occupied mainly by seniors as rent was cheap.

Looking for dried cuttlefish or dried lizard? Vacuum-sealed fungus? Dried persimmons? Bean curd? A specialty tea to treat a certain ailment? Try one of Chinatown’s many herbalists, who can recommend treatments that have been used for thousands of years.

One of several surname associations in the area, which were created by the first immigrants to assist other newcomers to find employment, shelter and education. As many were single men arriving alone, the surname associations, whose memberships were restricted to men with a certain last name, were a ready-made social circle and surrogate family.

As part of the beautification process, murals depicting scenes of early Chinatown are being painted on blank walls.

View of West Pender Street. Cheap eats, home decor, souvenir and household good stores abound, as do surname associations located on the floors above the ground-level shops.

Shingles on the roof over the Sun-Yat Sen Garden entrance.

The Sun-Yat Sen Garden is a more recent addition to Chinatown, opening shortly before Expo ’86. Supported by several levels of the Canadian and Chinese governments, it was based on Ming Dynasty-era gardens in terms of architecture, layout, flora and fauna. Seniors doing tai chi are a common sight.

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